Why Dry Skin Needs the Right Ingredients
Understanding Dry Skin: More Than Just Dehydration
If you have dry skin, chances are you’ve tried everything from thick creams to hydrating serums with Squalane or Hyaluronic Acid —yet, your skin still feels tight, flaky, or irritated. The truth?
A healthy skin barrier consists of water (hydration) and lipids (moisture-locking fats) working together. If hydration escapes faster than it’s replenished, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) increases, leading to persistent dryness, fine lines, and irritation.
This is where two powerhouse ingredients—hyaluronic acid (HA) and squalane—come in. They are often compared for their hydrating abilities, but they work in entirely different ways. The question is: Which one is better for dry skin, or do they work best together?
Let’s break it down scientifically.
What Is Hyaluronic Acid? How It Works for Hydration
Scientific Breakdown: What Makes HA So Hydrating?
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring glycosaminoglycan (GAG) found in the extracellular matrix (ECM) of the skin. Think of the ECM as the “scaffolding” of your skin—it holds everything together, keeping your skin plump and resilient.
What makes HA so unique? It can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, making it one of the most effective humectants (water-attracting ingredients) in skincare. However, not all HA molecules work the same way.
Molecular Weight Matters: Different HA Types and Their Functions
The size of HA molecules determines how deep they penetrate and how they affect the skin:
| HA Type | Molecular Weight | Function | Limitations |
| High Molecular Weight HA (HMW-HA) | >1000 kDa | Forms a hydrating film, prevents moisture loss, soothes irritation | Cannot penetrate deeply, only hydrates surface |
| Medium Molecular Weight HA (MMW-HA) | 300–800 kDa | Hydrates deeper layers, strengthens skin barrier | Less long-term hydration effect |
| Low Molecular Weight HA (LMW-HA) | 50–300 kDa | Penetrates deeply, stimulates collagen & elastin production | Can be inflammatory in sensitive skin |
| Nano HA | <50 kDa | Reaches the dermis, improves elasticity, hydrates long-term | Can increase TEWL if not combined with occlusives |
How HA Works in the Skin
- Acts as a Water Magnet: HA pulls moisture from both the environment and deeper skin layers.
- Supports Skin Healing: It binds with CD44 receptors, triggering cellular repair and reducing inflammation.
- Aging Impact: HA levels naturally decline with age, leading to dryness, sagging, and fine lines.
Fun Fact: By the time you turn 50, your HA levels drop by 50%, which is why mature skin often looks less plump and more dehydrated.
Limitations: When Hyaluronic Acid Isn’t Enough
- Humidity-dependent: In dry environments, HA can pull water from within the skin instead of the air, exacerbating dehydration.
- Not occlusive: HA needs a lipid-based ingredient to lock in the hydration it attracts.
- Potential irritation: LMW-HA can trigger inflammation in sensitive or compromised skin barriers.
What Is Squalane? How It Supports the Skin Barrier
Squalene vs. Squalane: What’s the Difference?
Squalene is a triterpene lipid naturally produced by human sebaceous glands, where it accounts for about 13% of skin surface lipids. It is also found in olive oil, sugarcane, and amaranth seed oil. However, squalene is highly unstable and oxidizes quickly when exposed to air.
To make it stable for skincare use, it undergoes hydrogenation, turning it into squalane—a fully saturated, non-oxidizing, and longer-lasting form.
| Feature | Squalene | Squalane |
| Stability | Easily oxidizes, short shelf life | Highly stable, long shelf life |
| Source | Human sebum, plant oils | Hydrogenated squalene |
| Skincare Benefits | Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, lightweight emollient | Moisturizing, non-greasy, reinforces skin barrier |
Scientific Breakdown: How Squalane Works in the Skin
Unlike HA, which attracts water, squalane prevents moisture loss by strengthening the lipid barrier—the skin’s natural defense against dehydration.
How Squalane Prevents Moisture Loss
- Replenishes natural skin oils, making it ideal for dry and mature skin.
- Reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by mimicking the skin’s natural lipids.
- Contains antioxidants, protecting against oxidative stress and environmental damage.
Pro Tip: By age 30, squalane production declines sharply, which is why skin becomes drier and more prone to irritation with age.
Limitations: When Squalane Isn’t Enough
- Does not add moisture – Unlike HA, it does not attract water, so it must be combined with a humectant.
- Potential clogging – Some plant-derived squalane sources may cause breakouts in very oily or acne-prone skin.
- Oxidation risk – Unstabilized squalene can degrade into irritating byproducts.
Head-to-Head Comparison: Squalane vs. Hyaluronic Acid
Now that we’ve established how hyaluronic acid (HA) attracts water and squalane locks in moisture, let’s put them head-to-head and see which one truly works best for dry skin.
Key Differences: Hydration Mechanism & Absorption
One of the biggest differences between HA and squalane is how they hydrate the skin.
| Feature | Hyaluronic Acid (HA) | Squalene/Squalane |
| Hydration Mechanism | Humectant: Pulls moisture into the skin | Emollient/Occlusive: Seals in moisture and reinforces the barrier |
| Water Retention Ability | Holds 1000x its weight in water | Prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL) but does not attract water |
| Barrier Function | Supports skin hydration via CD44 receptor signaling but does not provide lipids | Reinforces the lipid barrier, mimicking natural sebum |
| Skin Penetration | Varies by molecular weight: Larger molecules stay on the surface, smaller molecules penetrate deeper | Squalene absorbs quickly and integrates into the skin’s natural lipids |
| Best Use Case | Plumping, hydration, wound healing | Moisture retention, skin repair, antioxidant support |
| Best for | Dehydrated skin lacking water | Dry skin lacking natural oils |
Sensitivity & Irritation Risks
Both ingredients are generally well-tolerated, but their effectiveness depends on formulation and skin type.
- Hyaluronic Acid: Can cause increased dryness in low-humidity environments if not paired with an occlusive. Low molecular weight HA can also trigger inflammation in sensitive skin.
- Squalane: Non-irritating and non-sensitizing, but may clog pores if plant-derived versions are used in large amounts on acne-prone skin.
Fun Fact: Research shows that oxidized squalene (found in pollution-exposed skin) can trigger acne. This is why using stable, hydrogenated squalane is essential in skincare formulations.
Which Ingredient Works Best for Different Skin Types?
| Skin Type | Best Choice | Why? |
| Dehydrated Skin (Lacking Water) | Hyaluronic Acid + Squalane | HA attracts water, Squalane prevents moisture loss |
| Dry Skin (Lacking Oils & Lipids) | Squalane | Restores lost skin lipids and seals in hydration |
| Combination Skin | Both | HA for hydration, squalene for moisture balance |
| Oily Skin | Hyaluronic Acid | Hydrates without clogging pores |
| Mature/Aging Skin | Both | HA plumps skin, squalene prevents moisture loss |
The Science-Backed Verdict: Which One is Better for Dry Skin?
Why HA Alone May Not Be Enough for Deep Hydration
While HA is a powerful hydrator, it has limitations when used alone:
- It is not occlusive, meaning it can evaporate if not sealed in.
- In low humidity, HA can pull moisture from deeper layers of the skin, potentially worsening dehydration.
- Large molecular HA sits on top of the skin, providing a temporary plumping effect rather than deep hydration.
Why Squalane Alone May Not Be Enough for Hydration
Squalane is an emollient, not a humectant, meaning:
- It locks in moisture but does not add hydration.
- If used without a hydrating ingredient, it won’t help with plumping or deep hydration.
- Works best in combination with water-binding ingredients like HA or glycerin.
The Optimal Approach: Combining Hyaluronic Acid and Squalane for Maximum Hydration of Dry Skin
The best solution? Use both in combination!
- Apply HA first on damp skin to draw in moisture.
- Follow with squalane or a lipid-rich moisturizer to lock in hydration and reinforce the skin barrier.
Pro Tip: Layering HA and squalane mimics the skin’s natural hydration process, creating long-lasting moisture.
How to Choose the Right Product (Ingredients Matter!)
Best Ingredient Pairings for Hydration
For optimal results, HA and squalane should be combined with complementary ingredients.
| Ingredient | Best Pairing | Why? |
| Hyaluronic Acid | Ceramides + Peptides | Strengthens skin barrier, boosts hydration |
| Squalane | Fatty Acids + Cholesterol | Mimics natural lipids, locks in moisture |
| Both HA + Squalane | Niacinamide + Vitamin E | Enhances barrier function and antioxidant protection |
What to Avoid in Formulations
Not all HA or squalene formulations are effective. Here’s what to watch out for:
- Pure HA without occlusives – Can lead to moisture evaporation in dry climates.
- Oxidized squalene – Found in poor formulations, may cause inflammation.
- Alcohol-based formulations – Can strip moisture and cause irritation.
How to Build the Best Routine for Dry Skin
When to Apply Hyaluronic Acid vs. Squalane (Layering Tips) for Dry skin
To get the best hydration benefits, follow this layering routine:
- Step 1: Hydrating Mist or Toner – Prepares skin for HA absorption.
- Step 2: Hyaluronic Acid Serum – Apply on damp skin for best results.
- Step 3: Moisturizer with Squalane – Locks in hydration and reinforces the lipid barrier.
- Step 4: Face Oil or Sunscreen (Morning) – Prevents moisture loss and protects against environmental damage.
Recommended Pairings for Enhanced Hydration
- For intense hydration: HA + Glycerin + Squalane
- For barrier repair: Squalane + Ceramides + Fatty Acids
- For anti-aging: HA + Peptides + Vitamin C + Squalane
Final Verdict: Do You Need Both Squalane & Hyaluronic Acid?
If you have dry skin, the best approach isn’t choosing between HA or squalane—it’s using them together.
- HA attracts hydration, making skin plump and hydrated.
- Squalane locks in moisture, preventing dryness and water loss.
- When combined, they provide the ultimate hydration and barrier support solution.
The Bottom Line: Hydration without moisture retention is incomplete—use both for maximum benefits!
Curious about formulation tips or product layering strategies for your specific skin type? Drop your questions in the comments—or let me know what’s worked (or not) for you.
Talk to you soon!
Dr Bozica
References:
https://www.mdpi.com/1420-3049/14/1/540Was
https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1002/ski2.448