The Science of Centella Asiatica in Skincare

Centella Asiatica – More Than Just a Trend

Centella Asiatica, commonly known as Gotu Kola, has been used for centuries in traditional Asian medicine for its powerful skin-healing properties. But what exactly makes this botanical a must for skincare? Science has shown that it possesses a unique blend of bioactive compounds that can accelerate skin repair, reduce inflammation, and improve skin elasticity.

Centella Asiatica extract has found its way into modern skincare formulations, promising to enhance wound healing, reduce fine lines, and strengthen the skin barrier. However, before incorporating any new ingredient into your routine, it’s crucial to understand how it works at a cellular level and what research-backed benefits it truly offers. Let’s explore the science behind Centella Asiatica and its potential impact on your skin.

The Science Behind Centella Asiatica’s Skincare Benefits

Key Active Compounds & Their Properties

Centella Asiatica’s skin-enhancing effects come from its potent bioactive components. Here’s a breakdown of its key compounds and their roles:

• Triterpenes (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid): These compounds enhance the production of collagen—a protein that keeps skin firm and youthful. A study from Phytotherapy Research found that triterpenes stimulate fibroblast (collagen producing cell) activity, essential for wound healing and skin repair.
• Flavonoids & Phenolics: These antioxidants protect the skin from environmental damage. A study from Scientific Reports found that they neutralize free radicals, which are unstable molecules that cause premature aging.
• Amino Acids & Sugars: These naturally occurring molecules maintain hydration by supporting the skin barrier, preventing water loss, and improving skin resilience.

How It Works at a Cellular Level

Boosting Collagen for Firmer Skin

Collagen is like scaffolding for youthful skin, but production slows with age, leading to wrinkles and sagging. Centella Asiatica’s triterpenes activate fibroblasts, the skin’s natural collagen factories, ensuring structural integrity. What’s more, it inhibits enzymes that degrade collagen, making it a twofold defense against premature aging.

Neutralizing Free Radicals to Slow Aging

Between UV rays, pollution, and oxidative stress, your skin battles daily assaults. A study from Scientific Reports demonstrated that Centella Asiatica enhances the activity of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px)—two key antioxidant enzymes that shield skin from free radical damage, helping maintain elasticity and an even tone, and lessen premature aging.

Reducing Inflammation and Strengthening the Skin Barrier

Inflammation is at the core of many skin conditions—acne, eczema, and rosacea included. A study from Journal of Ethnopharmacology found that Centella Asiatica directly targets the JAK/STAT3 and NF-κB pathways, reducing inflammatory responses at a molecular level. The result? Less redness, irritation, and a stronger skin barrier, making it ideal for sensitive skin.

Centella Asiatica is especially beneficial for those with sensitive or reactive skin because it reduces inflammation and strengthens the skin barrier.

Clinical Applications: From Wound Healing to Anti-Aging

Centella Asiatica’s wound-healing properties are among the most well-documented in dermatology. Whether dealing with post-acne scars, laser treatments, or surgical wounds, this ingredient accelerates skin recovery by:

• Enhancing fibroblast migration—new skin cells move into damaged areas more efficiently.
• Regulating inflammation—balancing the skin’s healing response to minimize scarring.
• Increasing collagen deposition—improving overall skin texture post-injury.

In a systematic review from IJERPH, clinical trials found that Centella Asiatica extracts lead to better wound healing, making it a game-changer for post-procedure care.

Anti-Aging & Skin Barrier Repair

Aging skin often appears thinner, drier, and more prone to damage. Centella Asiatica helps counteract these effects by restoring hydration, reinforcing the skin barrier, and preventing collagen loss.

How It Slows Skin Aging

• Protects Against UV Damage: Sun exposure is one of the primary causes of premature aging. Centella Asiatica extracts protect against UV-induced damage by strengthening the skin’s antioxidant defense system.
• Strengthens the Skin Barrier: A healthy skin barrier retains moisture and protects against external irritants. Centella Asiatica stimulates ceramide production, which is crucial for maintaining a strong lipid barrier and preventing dehydration.
• Prevents Fine Lines and Wrinkles: Elastin and collagen breakdown are responsible for sagging skin and wrinkles. A study from Scientific Reports found that Centella Asiatica inhibits MMP-9, an enzyme that degrades collagen and elastin, keeping the skin firmer for longer.

Centella Asiatica for Acne, Eczema, and Psoriasis

While Centella Asiatica is best known for its wound-healing and anti-aging properties, it has also shown promise in managing inflammatory skin conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis. These chronic conditions often stem from a combination of inflammation, compromised skin barrier function, and microbial imbalance. With its ability to calm inflammation, enhance skin repair, and provide mild antimicrobial benefits, Centella Asiatica is emerging as a potential natural solution for these common skin concerns.

Centella Asiatica for Acne-Prone Skin

If you struggle with red, inflamed breakouts, Centella Asiatica might be a gentler alternative to harsh acne treatments. Research shows it suppresses inflammatory mediators like TNF-α and IL-6, reducing swelling and redness. Unlike benzoyl peroxide or retinoids, it fortifies the skin barrier rather than irritate, making it ideal for acne-prone but sensitive skin.

Mild Antibacterial Properties: While not a substitute for antibiotics, Centella Asiatica has been shown to help regulate acne-causing bacteria without disrupting the skin microbiome.

How to Use for Eczema

Pair a Centella Asiatica-infused serum with niacinamide or salicylic acid for a dual-action approach to oil control and inflammation reduction.

Eczema and Atopic Dermatitis: How Centella Asiatica Helps

Eczema is characterized by dry, itchy, inflamed skin and is often linked to a weakened skin barrier and immune system overreaction. Conventional treatments rely on steroid creams, but Centella Asiatica offers a gentler approach by targeting key triggers of eczema:

• Strengthening the Skin Barrier: The triterpenes in C. Asiatica boost lipid synthesis, particularly ceramides, which help the skin retain moisture and block irritants.
• Reducing Itch and Inflammation: Eczema flare-ups are driven by inflammatory pathways like JAK/STAT3. A study from the Journal of Ethnopharmacology reported that Centella Asiatica regulates these pathways, reducing the itching and redness associated with eczema.
• Fighting Oxidative Stress: Oxidative damage exacerbates eczema symptoms, but the antioxidants in Centella Asiatica help neutralize harmful free radicals.

How to Use for Eczema

Look for creams or balms containing Centella Asiatica along with hydrating ingredients like glycerin, shea butter, or hyaluronic acid to soothe and protect the skin.

Centella Asiatica for Psoriasis: Regulating Skin Cell Turnover

Psoriasis is an autoimmune condition that causes the skin to produce new cells at an accelerated rate, leading to scaly patches and persistent inflammation. While conventional treatments aim to slow cell turnover and control inflammation, Centella Asiatica offers additional benefits:

• Regulating Excessive Skin Growth: A study from the Journal of Ethnopharmacology reported that Centella Asiatica extracts reduce STAT3 activation, a key driver of keratinocyte (surface skin cells) overproduction.
• Enhancing Wound Healing: Psoriatic lesions can crack and bleed, making healing an important aspect of treatment. Centella Asiatica promote skin regeneration and reduce scarring.
• Calming Chronic Inflammation: By regulating inflammation response, Centella Asiatica can help reduce the excessive inflammation that triggers psoriasis flare-ups.

How to Use for Psoriasis

While not a standalone treatment, Centella Asiatica can be used alongside prescribed medications to help soothe irritation and speed up skin healing.

Comparing Centella Asiatica to Other Skincare Actives

Centella Asiatica is a multitasking skincare ingredient, but how does it compare to other well-known actives? 

Feature	Centella Asiatica	Retinol	Vitamin C	Niacinamide
Wound Healing	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐	⭐	⭐⭐
Anti-Aging	⭐⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐⭐
Skin Barrier Repair	⭐⭐⭐⭐	⭐	⭐	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Antioxidant Protection	⭐⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐
Acne Treatment	⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐	⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

Key Takeaway: Centella Asiatica excels in wound healing and barrier repair, whereas retinol and vitamin C dominate in collagen stimulation and brightening. Niacinamide overlaps with Centella in anti-inflammatory benefits but offers superior oil regulation.

Risks and Limitations of Centella Asiatica in Skincare

Potential for Allergic Reactions

Although Centella Asiatica is generally well-tolerated, some individuals—especially those with botanical allergies—may develop contact dermatitis. A patch test is highly recommended before full application.

Formulation Stability

 Centella Asiatica’s flavonoids and triterpenes degrade quickly when exposed to air and light. To ensure efficacy, look for opaque, airtight packaging and avoid clear jars or droppers.

Interaction with Other Actives

• Works well with humectants (hyaluronic acid, glycerin).
• Pairs with niacinamide for extra barrier support.
• Avoid using it alongside strong AHAs or high-strength retinoids, as it may increase sensitivity.

Final Thoughts: Have You Tried Centella Asiatica?

✔ Best for: Sensitive skin, post-procedure recovery, acne-prone individuals, and those looking to strengthen their skin barrier.
❌ Not a retinol replacement: While it boosts collagen, it’s far gentler than retinoids—so for serious anti-aging, consider using them together rather than swapping one for the other.

Have you tried Centella Asiatica in your skincare routine? Was it a game-changer or just another botanical? Let’s discuss below!

Talk to you soon!

Dr Bozica

References:

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1155/2021/5462633

https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-021-92958-7

https://www.mdpi.com/1660-4601/19/6/3266

https://www.mdpi.com/2218-1989/13/2/276

https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/ptr.5110 https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC4852572/